Falling Water, Dark Past and a Dream House

[Advertising due to linking] There are places that draw their fascination from their optical beauty in combination with an exciting past. Our destination, the Richmond Great House in Belle Garden / Tobago, definitely falls into this category. After reading a lot about this building and its history it was clear that we had to visit this place.
For our first trip this year with TobagoTours (www.tobagotours.de) we arranged to meet on a slightly cloudy Thursday morning.
Punctually at 9 o’clock in the morning Guide Katharina Dumas picks us up at our apartment in Buccoo with her car. The golden Mitsubishi is a good acquaintance of ours – with the well air-conditioned car we already drove to Fort King George and Tobago Plantations in 2017.

By chance to the waterfall

Shortly after Scarborough a detour leads us unplanned to the road to Hillsborough Dam in the centre of the island. Even though the area is unfortunately not accessible for visitors at the moment, we have made our way a little further inland. The destination is the small, but scenic waterfall of Greenhill (Greenhill Waterfall). During the dry season, however, the waterfall carries little or no water. The plant is nevertheless interesting and worth a stop.

The small side trip takes some time, but without this coincidence we probably would not have visited Greenhill during this holiday. A tip for all those who organise their own day trips with a rental car: Please take the latest maps with you and / or load the map of Tobago onto your mobile phone / tablet. The traffic routes on site are not always self-explanatory, so that an orientation aid is not only useful for detours.

The Atlantic – the rough side of the island

After we have left the detour behind us, we follow the Windward Road further north. The rough Atlantic gives the many lonely beaches a character of their own, which is reinforced today by the unusually many dark Clouds.

The contrast to the calm beaches of the Caribbean animates us again and again to short photo stops where we can capture this atmosphere.
In Belle Garden near Richmond we turn left off the main road and finally reach our destination. The Richmond Great House is one of the last mansions on Tobago. On the site of a former sugar cane plantation, it witnessed a time when oppression and enslavement dominated life on Tobago.

In the footsteps of the dark past

Disappointment spreads directly with the arrival. The gate at the extensive entrance to the house is closed and we search in vain for a reference to a contact possibility. It’s a good thing that we wrote down the phone number of the house and that Katharina has her mobile phone with her. After a short call to the house service we were given permission to open the car and drive up to the parking lot in front of the house. The gate was only locked to make it more difficult for animals living in the wild to enter – which is not all there is…. Getting out of the car you can enjoy a varied panorama from a clear view of the Atlantic Ocean, the well-kept complex including the swimming pool and the impressive main house including outbuildings.
We were welcomed by a friendly gentleman who was available for questions and answers. After a short walk through the garden he leads us through the historic house. A master bedroom, a large hall and many magnificent side rooms for guests of the house give an impression of the way of life of the owners at that time. The decadence of the rooms is paired in our minds with the agony that the plantation workers had to suffer.
The magnificent main house was built in the 1776 century and has so far been spared severe damage. Only minor repairs, for example after Hurricane Flora, were necessary for conservation.

African culture instead of oppression and Exploitation

Until 1973 the building was finally owned by various English families. Since then, the Richmond Great House has belonged to a professor of African studies born on Tobago. The original furnishings have unfortunately completely disappeared over the years. The owner has made a virtue of necessity, and combined his passions. Lovingly collected pieces of furniture, maps, paintings, sculptures and other exhibits from Africa breathe the life of the black continent into the building. The pieces fit perfectly into the architecture of wooden ceilings and floors as well as high rooms.

An exceptional holiday accommodation

In the lower part of the building there are now three rooms that can be booked for overnight stays. The house is therefore not only a sightseeing destination, but also a good accommodation for a short stop at the Atlantic coast!
If you like it a little bigger, you can also rent the whole house including the large bedrooms and the banqueting hall. In addition to tourist purposes, product presentations or other events can also be held here in a stylish ambience.
Please note that the beach can only be reached by car or after a longer walk.
After a walk through the well-kept garden, we enjoy the view of the Atlantic Ocean once more and then make our way along the coast in the direction of Buccoo.

From manor house to house for the public

It’s great to see how a building where the oppression of slaves was lived on the plantation is now open to the public. The African objects literally carry the voices of the workers and drive away the evil spirits of the past. The Richmond Great House thus embodies an essential character of Tobago – a home for people who cultivate their traditions and can proudly look back on the history of their mostly black African ancestors.

In the “Breath of Heaven” so close to paradise [not for rent anymore]

On the way back we make a side trip to David, a native Trinidadian, in Goodwood. We got to know David already in Castara and have now accepted his invitation to make us an impression of his house with holiday flat, the “Breath of Heaven”. House, flat and garden are to be described with only one word: Whoa! The building is located just north of Goodwood on a slope with an unobstructed view of the Atlantic Ocean and the small “Smith´s Island”. The small beach is within walking distance.

With a lot of handwork to the dream garden

David has lovingly planned the outdoor area over the last few months and designed it exclusively with utensils from the surrounding area, e.g. driftwood, shells and plants. The result is an oasis of well-being with many seating options, BBQ and a yoga area. The apartment, which David rents out to interested guests, captivates with its bright furnishings, large windows and an open kitchen. An absolute dream destination for all those who want to relax during their holidays!

Roti – the filling machine for in-between meals

Further on the way back to Buccoo we get hungry. What could be more natural than making a short stop in Mount Pleasant to buy a Roti at a traditional diner? This fast food is typical for Tobago and can be traced back to the Indian population on the island. The dumplings are usually filled with potatoes, beans, vegetables and meat, fish or seafood. For about 40 TT$ (about 6 EUR) you get a meal that also satisfies a bigger hunger.
Back at our apartment it’s now time to pack up your beach gear and process the impressions of the day at lonely Buccoo Beach once again.

Greenhill Waterfall
Address: Easterfield Road, Mount St. George, Tobago.
GPS: 11°12’33.3″N 60°40’10.3″W
Richmond Great House
Admission: 20 TT$
Duration: Approx. 45 minutes, no preferred time of day. Guided tours and visits should be announced before arrival, as there are no fixed opening hours.
Contact: +1 868-660-4474
Website: –
Address: Windward Road, Belle Garden, Tobago
GPS: Latitude : 11.229656 | Longitude : -60.609652

JAPIA Roti Diner Shop
Contact: +1 868-380-9865
Address: Robert Trace Extension, Mt. Pleasant, Tobago
Website: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Japia-Roti-Shop-Diner/
GPS: 11°10’13.2″N 60°47’36.5″W
Price approx. 30-45 TT$

TobagoTours
Contact: +1 868 756-0407
Website: www.tobagotours.de